The water was calm all day, but especially when we started out. Sun and great weather.

The channel often got narrow, as it is doing here. Sometimes confusing – but no time for pictures of that.

Rideau locks don’t open until 9, but the first one for us was two hours south of Hurst Marina. Merrickville is said to be the best town to stop at along the Rideau, so we left at 7 to get there early to find tie up space in the “pool” on the other side of the Merrickville triple flight lock. Merrickville is one of the harder places to find space, but there turned out to be plenty because we were traveling so late in the season.

As we passed the silos in the above picture on our left, this was on our right.

Taking it slow in another narrow channel. Shallow and marshy to the left.

When we got to the last triple flight lock at Merrickville boats were already starting to lock up in the lowest lock. The lockmaster told me on the phone that when those were finished several boats were waiting to lock down. He would get to us in about an hour. Longest wait by far we’ve had on the Rideau. Usually the gate is open or they see us coming and open just as we approach.

This bridge is just after passing through a hand operated lock. A guy behind it to the right is pushing it open.

More slow passage before the long wait at the last three flight locks.

There were no cleats at the waiting dock, only loops that appeared too small for our lines, so we floated in a small area while we waited. The worst thing about easing into mud is sucking it into various cooling intakes. We did that to our aircon in Philadelphia and had to get it flushed out. This time the worst was vast mud clouds kicked up when our tail and props got a little close.

One side of the main street. No single truly outstanding building, but taken together it was very nice.

While more than half the canal is before us, today may have been the high point. As often as not we were in very narrow winding channels close to the banks on each side. Other times our channel would branch and within 100 feet our chosen channel would branch again, and then again. I had the chart right in front of me but still had to slow down and convince myself that I had chosen the right way. As close to an Indian threading a birch bark canoe through a small stream in the northern wilds of Canada as we could get.

We crossed the lock gate to go into town. We’re parked to the right. Downtown is to the left.

Merrickville was a great stop with everything a block or so from the boat. There was a park on a small island extending away from us on the other side of the causeway. It had stone building ruins and a small museum. Troy was especially taken by an old steel water turbine he could push around like a small playground merry-go-round. This turned a vertical shaft which, through 4 other shafts and various large pulleys and leather belts turned a wooden spindle on a old lathe. He’s now on the boat trying to draw pictures of all that.

Out on the rocks at the far end of the small island park. Town and locks on the left, our boat at the upper right edge of this picture just through the trees.

We spent an extra day, found a Chinese restaurant with an entirely new take on hot and sour won ton soup (Nathan and I agree it was great). The women spent a lot of time shopping about the town and we all visited a better than average antique store with a lot of old toys from our childhood and before.

From our Ottawa parking spot, looking where we’ll be going. Not many boats this time of year. In July both sides are packed.

Sure looks like a drawbridge including what looks like a joint in the center. It lifts up about 12 feet.

We pulled away from the wall about 8:30 just glided at reduced speed through downtown Ottawa and into its suburbs. We passed through downtown and then park after park along with mid to upscale suburbs. It was an outstanding travel day, sunny but comfortable. Most of the canal has a speed limit of 8 mph or less and we traveled 20 miles total so there was no hurry.

The canal gets wide with bike paths on each side in the city.

Narrower with bike paths on each side, and parks on each side here.

Forest barrier on the left with homes behind.

Ottawa homes along the way.

In 15 minutes we reached the Pretoria Avenue lift bridge. You can’t call the bridges and locks here on the radio but they do supply phone numbers. How did the navigators of old ply these waters without cell phones? Anyway, the bridge master said there was a fire somewhere. Several emergency vehicles had already crossed the bridge and he was not sure if more were coming. After half an hour he got the all clear. It looked so much like a drawbridge that I didn’t even notice it had lifted very slowly until the boat waiting on the other side came through first. Since there are many 22’ fixed bridges on the Rideau it had to lift only 12 feet.

The first two locks were well within the city and the third was at its southern edge.

That swing bridge looks like a foot bridge but cars, no trucks, drive across it one at a time.

Toward the end of our trip, just outside of Ottawa we pass the only two boats of the day, the first a very small commercial cruise boat.

We landed at Hurst Marina to the south where we are still in the Ottawa city limits. Scenery could not have been better.

Tomorrow we head for Merrickville said by many to be the quaintest or cutest village on the entire Rideau canal.

Parliament Hill was the best sight to see. It closes for 10 years of renovations in 2018.

Our parking spot a few hundred feet from the top of the stair step locks. Parliament Hill in the background.

We’re downtown in Ottawa on the shopping/commercial side of the canal. The Government side is 5 minutes away across the bridge at the top of the stair step locks. We spent the rest of our first day at the Byward Market area which has fresh food markets, restaurants and various tourist shops. It’s the largest market in Canada.

The museum building is modern and the most impressive thing. It did have some good paintings. A worthwhile visit.

Going into the museum Troy saw Notre Dame cathedral across the street and suggested we go there next.

This best thing was probably this chipmunk from the museum shop.

Ottawa is not as big as Montreal, but it does win with government buildings and museums. We spent most of a day touring Parliament Hill and another day at the National Gallery of Art and the large cathedral across the street. Nathan, Troy and Nancy went to Cirque du Soleil across the river in Gatineau. Sue and I had a bit of down time on the boat when we fielded calls about the ongoing cleaning up of the mess in India.

The chamber for the house, the larger elected part of Parliament.

From the tower above the bells but below the clock. Library roof to left. National Gallery upper right. Notre Dame far right.

The only part saved from the 1916 fire, the library is easily the most spectacular part of the complex.

We ate in a couple of fancy restaurants that turned out just OK. One of our best meals might have been the Sunday brunch at the Westin across the street from the canal. Second best might have been in the Chinese stall (twice) at the food court of Rideau center. This is a large upscale shopping center (complete with Apple store) and is connected to the Westin.

Approaching the blue line to the right of the gates. The sun is shining at us.

This waterfall at the first gate appears in the upper picture but is hard to see.

We got to the blue line a little early and waited with one other boat. At the 9 AM opening time most of the 9 lock gates above us were waterfalls, and we would not be locking up until they dumped all that water. Troy and I climbed up along a few locks and took some pictures from there. The sun was coming down the locks against us, so forward photos are not too good.

Waiting on the blue line. With water falling over the 1st gate there is plenty of time to hike around the locks.

By 9:30 they drained the first lock and opened the gate. They take large boats first, and that’s what we are in this part of the country. The other boat could fit behind us if they tied to the opposite wall.

Canadian locks and associated parks are a big tourist attraction, and not just for us.

Looking back from the 3rd lock up.

It’s long haul going through 8 locks, one after the other. It was easier with Nancy. Nathan handled the back and Nancy front with Sue dealing with Troy. I was only needed for the short time we moved from one lock to the next. I could get used to this.

The last gate. Spectators above on the bridge. Blue line for oncoming boats is to left in the tunnel.

Taken later. Boats in the high chamber ready to lock down. Near middle boat still positioning to raft to its left.

No one kept track of the time, but I think it was around 11 when the last gate opened. We went maybe 1400 feet into the canal and tied up on the northeast side where there appeared to be power. There was power and we are downtown in Ottawa on the side of the Bywater Market and the famous Fairmont Chateau Laurier hotel. According to Google Maps it’s an 8 minute walk to the Centennial Flame at Parliament Hill. Looks like a good spot.

Today was great weather and smooth water most all the way.

We could not see two boats away in the marina when we got up. Here it lifted enough for us to leave.

We ran the final 40 miles to Hull Marina in Gatineau QC, just across the Ottawa River from Ottawa ON. The famous 8 “stairstep” locks that start the north end of the Rideau Canal are just across the river from us. After stopping nearly 2 hours to fuel up via a really slow pump we still got here before 2 PM.

Two ferries cross opposite directions. Three more wait to the right. Must be a busy area.

Nicest home we saw on the river today.

Only small towns, a few houses and farms on the Ottawa River today and yesterday.

Our Marina was a 10 minute walk from the Musee Canadien di l’Historie (hey we don’t leave French Quebec until tomorrow). This museum also contains the (Canadian National?) Children’s Museum, so Troy, Nathan, Sue and I were quickly off to see what we could. Troy liked what he saw, especially operating the large freight loading crane and moving “cargo” from the ship to the dock. The museum building is large, modern and impressive. It could use more exhibits. It certainly has room for them. Sue and I saw much of the early, colonial and modern sections of the museum. We did miss one of the four major sections. It was devoted entirely to hockey, the national sport, so there remains a large gap in our understanding of Canadian history.

Nine lion dogs a gift from Shanghai for MosaiCanada150. The dragons (not in pic) were from Beijing.

Horses emerging from the flower bed.

After heavy rain this morning, we had a respite and went to MosaiCanada150 exhibit in Jacques Cartier Park, which is just ashore from our marina. The park is filled with topiary exhibits in honor of 150 years of Canadian independence.

The gate for the first of 8 successive “stair step” locks is a bit left of center. Parliament to right, Chateau to left.

We did get Nancy at the airport after an hour delay. We had dinner in Ottawa across the river and will get up tomorrow to start on the Rideau Canal.

Carillon dam, power station and lock. The lock is open to the right with a boat between us and it.

We were parked just below the St Ann De Bellevue lock which opens at 9 every day, so we cranked the engines a bit before that time and moved in front of the gate. It opened and we went in with smaller boats in front and behind. This was the first lock containing a floating dock that we tied up to. It’s the easiest way to go since we just tie up in the normal way we always do and then float, up in this case, with the dock. It’s even easier since there are plenty of Parks Canada employees in the green shirts on the dock to take your lines and tie up. The dock does take up room so I can see why they don’t usually have them in locks.

Several boats already in the lock. Two more fast power boats going in, then us last.

Boats tie to the dock on the right, then others raft to them. We used the cables (vertical gray lines) on the left.

Twenty five miles later we hit the larger and deeper Carillon lock, also with a floating dock. Six boats went in before us, some tying to the floating dock and others rafting to them. They asked us in but misjudged the floating dock space so we went against the lock wall on the other side which allowed us to poke our nose further forward.

One of the farms along the way.

A small town along the way. Like in Europe they’re easy to spot because they always have a church.

We came to Montebello Municipal Marina after another 25 miles. Montebello was the only place to stop along the lower Ottawa river that we had heard about, so it was the obvious place to stop. We probably chose the worst of the 2 marinas. The other was the Chateau Montebello Marina which was crowded but certainly more upscale. The chateau is a large 5 star log hotel with extensive grounds. A nice place to hang out but takes a bit of walking out the long entrance road to the town. We normally like to dock right down town when possible and our marina was closer.

Church and parish house in Montebello.

There was really not too much to the town, but we did enjoy going through it. We also spent an evening at the hotel and had dinner there. There were several functions going on because people we saw were dressed really well. Not he awkward formals and suits like we see when the high school prom kids come down to the water for photos, but like scenes of the rich and beautiful people at high class hotels and parties in the movies. They had several upscale restaurants but we felt comfortable at the Bistro downstairs.

An entrance to Chateau Montebello.

The main room is an octagon with the fireplace (at right) in its center.

The wind was never worse than 11 mph off the water at our marina, but that was enough to kick up waves to rock our dock and the other boats around us big time. Waves splashed clear over the dock. We’re heavy enough to be the only relatively still object in sight, so we’re not feeling the motion much. When we came they were careful to center us on our T dock opposite the main dock in to shore. Our part did rock and roll less than the rest of our long dock. We will be careful to completely untie our boat before we take off tomorrow. If we don’t we’re sure to rip out the entire T dock and take it with us.

Troy and Nathan are back on the boat. Just in time to go through about 50 locks.

Speaking of Locks, here we approach the dread St Lambert Lock. Over its near bridge goes not the last train we’ll see today.

Before we could start up the Ottawa River we had to retrace about 35 miles of the St Laurence Seaway back through the St Lambert and St Catherine locks. We left Montreal at 7 AM, with the current this time, and steamed 5 miles to the St Lambert Lock. We made it there by 7:30 with no one else around, the gates on our end open but with a red light. This time we followed their standard protocol. We tied up to the waiting dock and called the lock on the special phone (they don’t answer to radio or normal phone calls). They said there were no big boats around (as well as no small ones we saw) but they would put us through at their standard time of 9 AM. Wish we’d known that before starting out so early.

A small town and its church on the south side of Montreal Island as we approach the west end.

We docked facing the St Ann de Bellevue lock gate. A small lock with a few feet of level change.

There was an additional delay due to several trains on the near lift bridge, then we went through the lock alone. Eight miles later at the St Catherine lock the gate was again open but we pulled up to the waiting dock at the side. Just as we slowed to tie up the light turned green so we again went through alone.

Restaurants and shops on both sides of Rue Sainte-Anne. Those to the left back up to the canal.

A number of restaurants have tables out back along the canal. This one we went to both nights.

We continued for 2 ½ hours to reach the St Anne De Bellevue west lock wall. St Anne De Bellevue is a neighborhood of Montreal at the west end of Montreal Island. The street closest to the water had “cute” shops and restaurants on both sides with those on the water side having outside dining and decks overlooking the lock wall walkway. It is a “must” stop for boats going this way with plenty of boats present Thursday and Friday. All of these were smaller so probably they used the Lachine canal through Montreal Island. They bypassed both the locks we went through today. Maybe that’s why we were locking alone.

We had a couple of nice meals after finding a restaurant we will probably revisit if we come this way again. We’re staying 2 nights because of a very rainy 2^nd day today which would be unpleasant with the two locks we’ll hit early tomorrow.

Burial at Sea of a Marine Officer…  We spent some time with this at the Montreal Art Museum.

Star Gazer stayed 3 weeks in Montreal. During that time Nathan and Troy arrived to travel the rest of this season (until early October) with us and we all took a 5 day side trip to North Idaho to visit our company and relatives there.

Three different boats like this passed within feet of us about 10 times per day going out to the rapids.

The weather continued pleasant, not too hot at all with a good amount of sun. We did manage to see more of Montreal. Mary Queen of the World church was especially interesting. Pastor Bell from our Presbyterian church in Sarasota told us of a great church in Montreal. Normally we find churches with Google Maps, but Church of St Andrew and St Paul could not be found because it did not have the word “Presbyterian” in its name.

Our type of boat is not seen much here. Most all are smaller local boats.

I noticed there were no sailboats at all in Yacht Club Montreal as well as in the other marina we spent one night in. They simply can’t fight that current. I certainly would not want to fight any more than that. We also saw no looper boats or any others that appeared to be further ranging boats such as ours although some of them must come through here sometime. Overall it’s a very different mix of boats in Montreal.

Mary Queen of the World is modeled after St Peters in Rome, but scaled down more than 8X in area.

It is a big church, but not big like St Peters.

Crowded in by surrounding buildings, Notre-Dame-de-Lourdes Chapel was worth a stop.

These other boats must not talk about their travels on the internet or buy any cruising guides, because I could find no cruising guides for the Ottawa River or the Rideau canal, which does have looper boats. There is internet information on the Rideau, but none I could find on the lower Ottawa River, between Montreal and Ottawa except for an account of two guys traversing that on jet skis. This is a problem since the charts show 3 possible ways to get from the St Lawrence Seaway to the Ottawa River. A few people had a preference for one of those 3, although none had ever traversed it, so that is the way we went and it turned out to be at least 20 feet all the way.

After the service at the Presbyterian church we had lunch and spent the day in the Museum next door.

Sue with friend on the walking street.

Jack and Sue here in Montreal with advice on proper manners. We spent a few weeks in the Loire Valley of France many years ago and learned that, even though they speak English, people would just stare at us if we asked them anything until we said “bonjour”. They might say “bonjour” as a prompt to us, but nothing else.

Interior of the Notre Dame basilica.

We wouldn’t mention it, but English does seem to be slowly taking over in Montreal. People speaking to a group of locals, often start with “Will anyone need me to speak French?”. Sometimes a few percent will say yes, but that is all.

We’ve tried one restaurant in Chinatown. We’ll need to try another soon.

Even so, to save them the problem of either ignoring us or dealing with our normal boorishness, we start conversations in person or on the phone with “Bonjour, do you speak English?”, to which they graciously answer “of course!” There are some variations that mean good afternoon and good evening, but “bonjour” seems to cover the bases pretty well.

The organ in Notre Dame.

We’re contemplating whether to take the train over to Quebec City next week and give our interpersonal skills with French the acid test.

The weather has been great here. Mostly sunny but not too hot. Last Friday we went to an organ concert at the Notre Dame Basilica where we sat up in the loft with the organist. The organ was the first in Canada and I’m afraid it showed. The sound had bad definition; you could say “mushy”. We still enjoyed the Phantom of the Opera, a Bach fugue and Clarke’s Trumpet Voluntary (our wedding music). The rest were popular and show tunes which would not do well on any pipe organ, let alone this one.

The central stairs are reserved for many that come on pilgrimage. More stairs at & in the building than in front. St Andre, who started this church, is associated with healing. Confusing inside with mix of stairs, escalators & elevators to 7th floor sanctuary.

Sunday was the weekly recital at St Joseph Oratory. The songs played were classical, but not familiar to us. The organ’s sound was very good, as should be expected from a recently built organ considered one of the 10 best in the world. While the exterior of the church is impressive, the interior was a letdown. Construction lasting from 1917 to 1967 allowed a different architect to do the interior toward the end, making it modern, common looking and a jarring contrast from the exterior.

The organ in St Joseph Oratory. No much for looks, but it works.

We went to the big mall – they claim one of the largest in North America. Probably true because its lower floor is the underground which extends to connect buildings for miles along St Catherine Street (the metro is the next level down). Most of these buildings have shops on their street and upper levels as well. There are twenty miles of underground in Montreal. I don’t know how much of this is shops. We probably saw the most intensive mile. We ate some OK chain restaurant food (chains new to us) in the underground food courts. Closer to us we do like L’Usine de Spaghetti up on the walking street. On a weekday get there by 5:30 to walk in, By 6 the line goes out into the street.